Watch FAQs – WatchRanker https://watchranker.com Just another WordPress site Tue, 19 Apr 2022 18:52:50 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=5.8 Digital vs. Analog Watches – What’s the Difference? https://watchranker.com/digital-vs-analog-watches/ Tue, 19 Apr 2022 18:52:50 +0000 https://watchranker.com/?p=21467 Are you looking to buy your first watch? Wondering which type of watch suits your needs better? Check out this article to know more about what makes digital and analog watches different from each other. Each type hosts its own set of unique features and types of movements.
In short, digital watches use an LCD or LED screen to display the time. Whereas, an analog watch features three hands to denote the hour, minutes, and seconds. With the advancement in watch technology and research, both, analog and digital watches have received significant improvements over the years. Especially, in terms of design, endurance, and accompanying features.
Some may also categorize mechanical movements as analog and quartz movements as digital watches. Keep reading to know more about the origin of the digital and analog watches and some highly acclaimed timepieces that charted a new course for other watch brands to aspire towards.

Digital Watches vs Analog Watches

The first analog watch dates back to the 1960s. And the subsequent timekeeping demands of the World Wars led to the increase in people relying on both analog and digital wristwatches. Then we saw the quartz crisis reshaping the world of horology. With this, a majority of watch brands use battery-powered movements, making it far easier and cost-effective to make simple analog or digital watches.
In the 1970s, the first digital watch made its way, introduced first by the Hamilton watch company. Using battery-powered watches to send electricity to turn time, digital watches soon became a household name globally. Unlike traditional watches that require some sort of winding mechanism, a battery-powered watch made it effective in terms of accuracy, performance, reliability, and cost.

Analog vs Digital: Which is better?

In terms of accuracy, yes, a quartz watch fairs better than most mechanical watches. To this extent, quartz watches may gain or lose just a second in a day. Whereas, mechanical watches, on average, can lose or gain up to 20 seconds or more in a day. However, if you are looking at luxury chronometer-certified watches, they gain or lose only up to 4 to 6 seconds in a day. Unless your profession depends on extremely accurate timekeeping, a deviation of a few seconds a day should not be the deciding factor when buying your watch.
Both analog and digital watches can showcase a ton of additional features like a calendar, compass, stopwatch, alarms, or time zones. With digital watches, these functions are easily available with most timepieces as opposed to a mechanical watch. In this sense, mechanical watches required additional gears and bolts to host these features. This automatically adds cost and moving parts that may require regular maintenance to keep it highly functional.
As the industry progressed and technology allowed brands to widely experiment with analog and digital watches, the battle of which is better continues even to date. While analog watches represent the traditional watchmaking process, digital watches symbolize the progressing change in time with new innovations and technology. Yet, both stand at the cusp of the conventional and contemporary essence of watchmaking.
If you are a watch collector, you may seek both types. Or, if you are looking to buy your first ever watch, making a choice between the two may seem like a huge task. To make things simple, below are some top digital and analog watches of all time. These have influenced the world of horology and continue to inspire many watch brands.

Top 3 Analog Watches

The biggest advantage of an analog watch is the wide variety of designs and styles to choose from. Many prefer analog watches, given their association with prestigious brands. Certain analog watches have become a symbol throughout history, increasing their value and customer preference.
This is primarily because, an analog watch requires the assembling of multiple minute moving parts, carefully fit together with a powerful movement. To achieve this level of watchmaking finesse, watch brands bring to life years of watchmaking expertise. However, unlike digital watches, analog watches can be extremely expensive for many to afford. In this list below, we will see talk about luxury, mid-range, and affordable analog watches, along with their functions.

Rolex Datejust

Rolex needs no introduction. For many, Rolex is the dream watch – a symbol of wealth, class, and sophistication. Yet, many cannot afford to own one. Nevertheless, Rolex sets a high bar for other watch brands to touch, constantly reaching for new heights in horological research and innovation.
Be it using in-house metals or in-house movements, Rolex has all bases covered to remain the most premium even in the years to come. For this article, let’s dive into the Rolex Datejust. Designed with a classic style, the Datejust showcases hours, minutes, seconds, and date. With a simple, yet elegantly sophisticated look, the Datejust costs over USD 5000.
Despite the steep price for a watch without other functionalities of a digital watch, many are willing to pay for the brand name. Owning a Rolex means being part of an exclusive group and for this, watch enthusiasts will go a long way to get their hands on one!

Tissot Chrono XL

A Swiss watch brand, Tissot’s ethos stands for innovation by tradition. Founded in 1853, Tissot transforms its years of watchmaking knowledge and know-how into high-quality watches. Despite being a premium brand, Tissot is a mid-range brand within the USD 1000 range. This makes it an attractive option for those looking to buy a mechanical watch to last many generations.
The Tissot Chrono XL, particularly, comes in a 45 mm case and 330 feet of water resistance. Powered by the ETA G10.212 movement, this timepiece features a central 60-seconds chronograph hand, 30-minutes, and 1/10 of second counters. With a black dial, beige marking on the face, with a brown synthetic leather strap, the Chrono XL embodies charm and grandeur.

Seiko Dress Watch

A well-known Japanese brand, Seiko holds its place in the world of watches for its high quality, high functionality, and low cost. Set up in 1881 in Tokyo, the brand personifies Japanese craftsmanship and long-lasting performance.
The Dress watch in reference here comes equipped with a dual chronograph, multiple sub-dials, and a tachymeter. The chronograph can measure up to 60 minutes of elapsed time. Designed with Caliber 8T63, this timepiece displays a grey dial with a triple color racing stripe strap. All these features and more, at less than USD 300.
Given these vast difference price ranges, you may wonder what sets these apart. The answer is simple – are you looking to buy a luxury watch made by a traditional brand with in-house materials and movement, or are you looking to buy an affordable watch, mass-manufactured in factories with many functions?

Top 3 Digital Watches

Digital watches, on the other hand, do not have multiple moving parts. Most of all, new and upcoming brands can easily capitalize on the swifter watchmaking process that does not require traditional watchmaking expertise. Given these circumstances, digital watches are definitely cheaper than luxury or mid-range analog watches. The watches listed below all range within USD 100. Consequently, this makes it a huge win for many customers who are looking to invest in something simple, affordable, and different.
Check out our list of top 21 digital watches of this year here!

Casio A168WG-9VT

Casio is a well-known brand in the world of watches and electronics. This Tokyo-based brand set up in the 60s has come a long way in not only becoming a global name for watches, but also a synonym for reliability and performance.
With an iconic design, the Casio A168WG-9VT digital timepiece is famous across the world! With many international celebrities sporting this watch, the demand for digital watches is on the rise! A simple single screen dial displaying time, day, date, and alarm, this watch is the quintessential design of a vintage digital watch.
Many watch collectors consider this as the revival of digital watches in the age of mechanical watches. Paired with a stopwatch, and battery life of 7 years, one cannot go wrong with this Casio timepiece. At an incredibly affordable price, a Casio is a wonderful gateway into the world of horology.

Timex Ironman Classic

An American brand set up in 1854, Timex rivals Casio for affordable and durable watches. While one caters to the west, the latter is the leading watchmaker in the east! A brand that offers something for everyone, is also a pioneer in digital watch technology.
The Ironman Classic is a symbol of the brand’s mission – we don’t stop – personifying the desire to keep pushing boundaries of innovation at an affordable cost for all. A sporty design with a resin strap, the Ironman Classic hosts a 100-hour chronograph with a 24-hour countdown timer.
Packed in a 38 mm case, this Timex watch is water-resistant up to 330 feet underwater, making it suitable for swimming but not diving activities. Promised with Timex’s quality, the Ironman Classic comes in different iterations using different shades and variations of the functions. Yet, all at a really affordable price.

Suunto Core

A unique watch brand, Suunto makes sports and adventure digital watches. Launched in 1936, this Finnish brand fuels its passion for watchmaking through the explorer spirit and Nordic essence. Over the years, Suunto has garnered many loyal patrons, making it extremely reliable in different conditions.
Most of all, a Suunto on your writs will be a loyal companion no matter which corner of the world you venture to – hilly peaks, snowy mountains, deep dark sea, or the dense jungle. The brand introduce the edition called Core, engineered with many modern technologies. Some of which include a storm alarm, compass, barometer, and altimeter. In addition, the watch hosts AI technology to help predict sunrise and sunset.
To make it undeniably convincing, the face of the watch features dual time zone, and tracks your workouts such as walking, cycling, hiking, and more! Paving the way for harmoniously merging digital watches with smartwatch functions, Suunto is now an inspiration for affordable smartwatch technologies. Promised with the Scandinavian endurance, Suunto offers something new in the world of mass-produced digital watches.

Are Smartwatches Paving the Way for a New Era of Digital Watches?

Digital watches laid the groundwork for smartwatches with the boom in AI technology. Brands like Apple and Samsung developed their own technology to cater to an audience fascinated by ingenuity and innovation. The rise in smartwatches capitalized on the increased buzz of health and fitness tracking right from your wrists.
For instance, the current Apple Watch Series 7 can measure your blood oxygen level, detect unnatural falls and call emergency services. Most impressive of all, you can measure EEG in 15 seconds. Proudly known for saving the lives of many, brands like Apple will continue to unveil new and unheard features. Resultantly, the fight for analog vs digital watches will continue into the years to come!
Click here to read more about some top smartwatches of 2022.

Analog Digital Watches

As the name says, various brands have introduced watches bringing together the best of both worlds. Typically, on the face of the watch, you will see a small screen that displays the time. However, the larger setting of the dial showcases an analog feature.
If you are unable to make up your mind on what best suits you or want a mix of traditional and modern watchmaking essence on your wrist, here is an example of an analog-digital watch.

Casio G-Shock

Another Casio on our list here – we look at the GA100-1A2, an ana-digi watch. The G-Shock range holds high regard with watch aficionados.
The face of the watch showcases both an analog clock and a digital clock. Commonly dubbed as the thrid-eye monster, this timepiece offers an embossed 3D look. Interestingly, the watch also comes equipped with a 1/1000th second stopwatch, 656 feet of water resistance, and incredible magnetic resistance. Powered by the Casio battery, this watch offers an accuracy of +/- 15 seconds a month! You can learn more about G-Shock watches here.
At the end of the day, whether you go analog or digital, it’s a personal preference to make based on your style, needs, functions, and budget.

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Guide to Rolex Serti Dial Watches https://watchranker.com/guide-to-rolex-serti-dial-watches/ Wed, 09 Mar 2022 18:44:11 +0000 https://watchranker.com/?p=20592 Rolex Serti Dial Watches Cover
Rolex’s ingenuity and innovation have led to the creation of new horological jargon exclusive to the brand itself. Worlds like Rolesor, Rolesium, Everose, and Oystersteel are not unknown to the watch community. Rolesor refers to the Rolex designs with twin-tone metal. Rolesium refers to a combination of metals together called Rolesium. Everose and Oystersteel are in-house metals by Rolex.
Similarly, if you have been researching watches, you would have come across Serti dials. In short, Rolex watches hosting precious gems on the dial, collectively, get the name Serti dial watches. You may have seen many Rolex editions come with diamonds, sapphires, and other gems on the face of the dial and on the bezel. These exquisite timepieces feature across various collections such as the GMT Master II, Yacht-Master, Submariner, and more!
Keep reading to know more about the origin of the term and some top Serti dials you may be able to get your hands on today!

What is Rolex Serti Dial?


Luxury watches symbolize exquisiteness. To develop such a timepiece befitting the name of a luxury watch takes a certain watchmaking finesse. And, then there are brands like Rolex who keep raising their bar with innovation, new technologies, and unseen design. Many may consider Rolex to be their ultimate dream watch and the brand continues to keep that spirit alive.
In this vein, the Serti dial rose to fame for its sophisticated design. The brand’s in-house gemologist offer their expertise at every stage of sourcing, selecting, and examining these precious gems. This ensures only the highest quality and purest gem finally sits on these magnificently designed watches.

Origin of the Name

The origin traces back to the French word, “sertissage“. Or in short, “sertir“, meaning “to set” in reference to the art of gem-setting.
Typically, you will see that the Serti dial watches showcase eight diamonds sitting on the hours and ruby or sapphire sitting on the indexes. Paired with complimenting dial tone and bezel, Rolex elevates the luxurious feel of their watches.
Though, in the books of watch collectors and aficionados, the Rolex Serti dial typically refers to a particular signature gem placement and design. This is primarily because Serti dials under these collections quickly became collectibles, making them far more exclusive from other watches from the same collection.
Originally, the Serti dials specifically denoted either of these three iterations – the Rolex Submariner with diamonds and sapphires, GMT Master with diamonds and rubies, and Yacht-Master with only rubies, or diamonds with sapphires. Yet, these days, Serti dials have become a broader term used across all gem-studded Rolex watches.
This can make things complicated if you have not thoroughly researched what Serti watches actually are. For one, you can either buy factory-made Rolex watches or aftermarket Rolex watches. Factory-made Rolex Serti will come with genuine and real gems, made exclusively by Rolex. However, the aftermarket Rolex Serti dial is not genuine or pure since anyone can make these watches by getting spare parts.

Examples of Rolex Watches with Serti Dial

Most of the quintessential Seri dials launched as early as the 1980s and were discontinued by the 2010s, making this design a collectible. With the official chronometer certification, the Serti dials set out to leave a mark in the world of gem-studded luxury watches and have achieved exactly that today.
Though the current website does not display any Serti dials, you can get your hands on one through the secondary market. However, make sure to check if the secondary market watches are factory-made or aftersales watches.

GMT  Master Serti

ROLEX GMT-MASTER II 16713 SERTI DIAL Watch
Rolex GMT-Master II Serti Dial Watch (Image: bobswatches)

Designed with different tones, the GMT-Master Serti is the epitome of Rolex Serti watches. Serti dials, GMT Master ref. 16758 and GMT Master-II ref. 16718, part of this collection hosts an 18-k gold champagne dial, studded with rubies for index and diamonds for hour marks.
Launched with both, Master and Mater-II, collections, this Seri dial offers black and bronze ‘rootbeer‘ bezel colors. If you’re lucky, you may find a two-toned GMT Master ref. 16753 or Master II ref. 16713.
Click here to learn more about the Rolex GMT Master watch and some affordable alternatives.

Submariner Serti

Rolex Serti Submariner 16613 Watch
Rolex Serti Submariner 16613 (Image: bobswatches)

The Submariner Serti dial ref. 16803, ref. 16808, and ref. 16613 comes with a blue bezel and a golden face sitting within the two-tone gold and oystersteel steel watch. The face of the dial proudly displays the diamonds on the hours and the blue sapphires on the index marks. This collection also has gold with a black bezel taking the Serti look.
The date window sits at 3 o’clock, giving the watch an elegant, yet extremely sophisticated spirit. You can find this edition in a dull gold dial and a single-tone full gold watch as well.
The Rolex Submariner remains one of the most sought-after watches forever in time. Learn more about the submariner collection here.

Yacht-Master Serti

ROLEX YACHT-MASTER 16623 MOP RUBY DIAL Watch
Rolex Yacht-Master 16623 Ruby Dial Watch (Image: Bobswatches)

Engineered in a 40 mm Rolex Rolesor, the Yacht-Master Serti is another example of a quintessential Rolex watch with gem-setting. Commonly engineered with a mother of pearl dial, this Rolex offers an opulent and unique look. The Yacht-Master Serti dial comes in gold, ref. 16628, and two-tone bracelets, ref. 16623. Most of all, the Yacht-Master Serti dials are also available for women at a 29 mm dial with gold, ref. 16623, or two-tone, ref. 169623, bracelets.
Unlike the Submariner and GMT-Master Serti dials, the Yacht-Master dials have only rubies on the hours and index. This replaces the eight signature diamonds set in hour marks and uses a single gem across the dial. However, the sapphire hosting watches come paired with the signature eight diamond set. All these watches show the date window at 3 o’clock.
You can learn more about Yacht-Master here.
A common thread with these three collections is that they are sports watches at the core of it. Keeping this functionality uncompromised, these gem-studded editions give this tool watch a never seen before luxurious essence. As a result, the Serti dial will remain known in history as one of Rolex’s milestones in shaping the world of horology.
In conclusion, all Rolex watches featuring diamonds and other gems commonly get the name Serti dials. However, in the more real sense, luxury watch collectors recognize mainly three collections as the model Serti dials.

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Cartier Ballon Bleu – Short History & Buyers Guide https://watchranker.com/cartier-ballon-bleu-watch-guide/ Mon, 07 Mar 2022 15:21:39 +0000 https://watchranker.com/?p=20325 Cartier Ballon Bleu - Short History & Buyers Guide
French jewelry and watchmaker Cartier, one of the most prestigious jewelry and watch manufacturers in the world, is widely known for its uniquely-shaped watches–the rectangular-shaped Tank, the square Santos, and the tonneau-shaped Roadster. However, a collection introduced in the late 2000s changed this. After the maison introduced the Cartier Ballon Bleu or the Ballon de Cartier, a watch with a more conventional round shape, with the equally elegant craftsmanship, Cartier is known for.
The Cartier Ballon Bleu was introduced in 2007 when Cartier released a range of round timepieces. Several models are available–from the smaller 28mm women’s watches to more robust 46mm for men. The watches have a sculptural case and polished bracelet. The key feature is the elegant blue bubble sapphire cabochon on the winding crown, the sword-shaped hands, and the large Roman numeral markers. A modern classic loved by both men and women, it’s understated and elegant—a watch that looks good with casual and formal wear.
It did not take long for the Cartier Ballon Bleu to enjoy the same popularity as its older counterparts. This is one of the maison’s top-selling watches and continues to be one of the brand’s most popular models, with the brand reportedly selling more of it than other luxury watchmakers sell overall.
In this article, we’ll get to know the model better by discussing its design and functions and talking about its value in the market. We’ve also listed some of the most famous celebrities and personalities who have been spotted wearing it. Finally, we’re providing some suggestions on trusted sites where you can buy both brand new and pre-owned Ballon Bleu models.

What movement is in the Cartier Ballon Bleu?

Ballon bleu de cartier flying tourbillon watch
Ballon bleu de cartier flying tourbillon watch (Image: Cartier)

The Cartier Ballon Bleu has both automatic and quartz movements. The Ballon Bleu has a wide range of models, with the stainless steel editions being the entry-level models. The ladies’ models are between 27mm and 37mm, and the men’s sizes are around 36 to 42mm. Some of the materials to choose from include stainless steel, rose gold or yellow gold, white gold, and a combination of gold and steel. According to Chrono24, one of the more affordable models is the ref. W69010Z4, a stainless steel model with a quartz movement, is available in 28mm and 33mm sizes.
Some models have special luxury features like dials studded with diamonds. There is also the exquisite Ballon Bleu tourbillon model (the Ballon Bleu Flying Tourbillon), a 39mm watch with a mechanical movement, an 18k white gold case, and a guilloche dial. The watch also has a power reserve of up to 50 hours. This model does not come cheap–it’s priced at $75,000 on Cartier’s official website when publishing this article.
For those who would like a more robust appearance, the Ballon Bleu de Cartier Carbon has sporty features: a carbon-based ADLC coating that makes it more durable and scratch-resistant. The chronograph version is powered by an in-house caliber 1904-CH2, a 44mm model with a 30-minute counter, date display, and small seconds.
A 2021 article on Hodinkee featured some of the latest Ballon Bleu models, with an in-house movement and a 40mm case (a size that is usually considered as a watch sweet spot by collectors). The article, which said that this was the “best Ballon Bleu yet,” discusses the in-house 1847 MC automatic movement, as well as the choices in features: a choice of steel or gold case, grey and sunburst dial, steel and alligator strap bracelet, and an option of having with or without diamonds. Visit the article here.

Celebrities That Wear The Cartier Ballon Bleu

CARTIER BALLON BLEU WATCH (33MM) STAINLESS STEEL
Cartier Ballon Bleu Watch (33MM) (Image: Cartier)

The Ballon Bleu, though a relatively newer line, is slowly becoming a favorite among collectors. It’s a modern classic commonly seen on more and more celebrities.
One of the most famous celebrities spotted with the Ballon Bleu is Kate Middleton, Duchess of Cambridge. According to Kate Middleton Style, a blog that featured the Duchess of Cambridge’s style, she owns the 33mm silver stainless steel, with the iconic blue sword-shaped hands, opaline dial, Roman numeral markers, and the blue cabochon. The site also has a gallery of photos where the Duchess wears the model.
Cartier is a popular choice among royals. Princess Diana owned a Cartier Tank and a Cartier Tank Francaise. Meghan Markle has been seen wearing one of Diana’s watches and owned a Tank watch that she purchased as a gift to herself in 2015. You can read more about this in our article on Iconic Cartier Watches on Watch Ranker.
Other celebrities who have been spotted wearing the Ballon Bleu are Oscar Isaac, Jennifer Love Hewitt, Lindsay Lohan, Sofia Vergara, Kris Jenner, and Simon Cowell.

Does The Cartier Ballon Bleu Retain Value?

TANK MUST WATCH
Cartier Tank Platinum Watch (Image: Cartier)

It would be difficult to predict the resale value of watches, as it all depends on the consumers’ demands and tastes. Still, sources suggest that many Cartier watches and jewelry hold their value. In some cases, they even increase over time (although pre-owned items from the brand’s jewelry line are more likely to have a higher value).
According to Watches Guild, you can resell the classic and vintage Cartier models at higher values because of the gold material used, as well as the vintage look. Gold models will naturally have higher resale values than stainless steel ones, especially if the seller keeps the original box and documentation.
One brand that is commonly compared to Cartier in the resale market is Rolex. Cartier watches are significantly more affordable compared to Rolex models. One reason for this is the movement—Cartier has both quartz and mechanical watches, while Rolex has stopped producing watches (the Swiss watchmaker stopped the production of the Oysterquartz in 2001).
The article, however, mentions that while Cartier watches do not hold their value as well as Rolex pieces, they still have a good resale value compared to other luxury brands.
Though Cartier is also widely known as a jewelry maker, the brand has an excellent reputation in the horology world. It is considered one of the world’s most influential luxury watchmakers. With their elegant and timeless designs, Cartier watches are an excellent watch investment.

Where To Buy Cartier Ballon Bleu Watches

If you’re not able to go to an actual Cartier store or Cartier dealer, there are plenty of places online to purchase Ballon Bleu models. The brand’s official website, Cartier.com, has nearly a hundred Ballon Bleu models to choose from.
If you would like to purchase pre-owned models, an excellent place to start is Bob’s Watches, a popular reselling website known for the resale and trade of watches. While the site is known to focus on pre-owned Rolexes (they are known as the “World’s First and only Pre-Owned Rolex Exchange),” they also sell other big names like Cartier. According to an article by Insider, this is a trusted website. Every watch sold here is certified authentic (both model and its parts), with specialists inspecting the watch before a transaction is completed.
Another website that sells pre-owned Cartier Ballon Bleu models is Jomashop, a grey market watch seller (meaning they don’t sell fakes or counterfeits) that sells luxury watches at a lower price. They can sell the watches for a lower price than the dealership because they purchase them at a lower price from manufacturer-authorized dealers and then mark the watches with a relatively affordable price tag. Check out Ballon Bleu models on Jomashop here.
Those looking for a pre-owned Cartier Ballon Bleu can also check out the models sold on eBay. This page has a wide range of models, including this unused 28mm stainless steel model and this pre-owned XL chronograph.
If you would like to visit a physical Cartier store, you can find branches on this site, which lists all of their locations worldwide.

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Guide To Rolex Letter Codes (BLRO, BLNR, CHNR, etc..) https://watchranker.com/guide-to-rolex-letter-codes/ Fri, 04 Mar 2022 12:48:06 +0000 https://watchranker.com/?p=20538 Guide To Rolex Letter Codes (BLRO, BLNR, CHNR, Etc..)
If you’re researching Rolex watches and landed here, we’re guessing that you are a watch enthusiast, collector, or horologer. Additionally, since you’re reading this, it may be safe to assume that you are exploring the colorful world of Rolex watches.
At this point, you might have already heard or read the Rolex nicknames such as Pepsi, Root Beer, Coke, Batman, Hulk, and Milgauss.
Yet knowing these nicknames is barely scratching the surface. If you look into the reference numbers of various Rolex models, you can dig down to find out even more detail about them and can know what the watch will look like just by reading the code – even without the watch in front of you.
Let’s start off with the letter codes you may encounter at the end of some reference numbers, such as 126710BLRO, 126711CHNR, and 116400GV.

Guide to Rolex Letter Codes

As background, remember that Rolex is a Geneva-based company whose official language is French. But worry not, you don’t have to learn the French language to understand the Rolex letter codes, although there are a handful of French words such as Bleu, Noir, Rouge, Vert, Chocolat, Lunette, and Glace that will help you understand the abbreviations of Rolex watch models and how they reflect the color, style and aesthetic of each model.

BLRO

 Rolex Rolex GMT-Master II - The Cosmopolitan Watch
Rolex Rolex GMT-Master II

BLRO stands for Bleu-Rouge, which translates to “Blue-Red” and is more commonly known as “Pepsi.” It refers to the two-tone Cerachrom bezel on some GMT models.
An example of which would be the Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 126710BLRO

BLNR

Rolex GMT-Master II ref 126710 BLNR
Rolex GMT-Master II ref 126710

Next, BLNR stands for Bleu-Noir or “Blue-Black” in English. It is almost the same as the previous code (BLRO), except that instead of red, it has black that goes with blue. One of its popular models is “Batman” or the Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 126710BLNR.
The Rolex Batman has become a highly sought-after model, and because of its high demand, other brands have decided to produce their models with the same color scheme.

CHNR

Rolex GMT-Master II Ref 126711 CHNR
Rolex GMT-Master II Ref 126711

CHNR is the code for Chocolat-Noir, which means “Chocolate-Black.” Rolex models with CHNR on their reference numbers feature a two-tone ceramic bezel in the mix of black and chocolate brown. Such a color scheme is more popular in the term Rolex “Root Beer” and may be seen in the Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 126711CHNR.

LN

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Watch: Oystersteel - M116500LN-0002
Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Watch

We move forward to those with only one color from two-tone bezels – starting off with LN, meaning Lunette Noir or “Black Bezel” in English. Black bezels are pretty prevalent among Rolex watches, especially in Submariner, GMT-Master, and Daytona collections. An example of which is the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Oystersteel ref. 116500LN.

LV

Rolex Submariner Green Hulk Watch 116610
Rolex Submariner “Hulk” Watch (Image: BobsWatches)

LV stands for Lunette Verte. Verte means “Green” while Lunette, as we already know, is “bezel.” Green bezels have become pretty popular among watch enthusiasts. Several models with the LV code are still in high demand, such as the  Rolex Submariner “Hulk” ref. M116620LV, the older Rolex “Kermit,” and the modern Submariner Starbucks.

LB

Rolex Submariner Date 116613LB watch
Rolex Submariner Date 116613LB (Image: Rolex)

LB pertains to Lunette Bleu. At this point, you may have easily known that this means “Blue Bezel.” Compared to LNs and LVs, Rolexes with blue bezels are rare and more costly than their sister models. The Rolex Submariner ref. 116613LB is an example of this.

GV

Rolex Milgauss 40mm / Blue Dial / Reference #116400GV
Rolex Milgauss 40mm (Image: Rolex)

Last on the list is not about bezels but the dial window glass. GV stands for Glace Verte, which translates to “green glass.” Such green glass is particularly distinctive since it is used only by Rolex and in only one collection – Milgauss. This is because developing such green sapphire crystal is too expensive and time-consuming. Regardless, the green sapphire crystal brings a unique and attractive look to the timepiece, such as in Rolex Milgauss ref. 116400GV.
The Rolex Milgauss is well-known as one of the best anti-magnetic watches on the market.

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Annual Calendar vs. Perpetual Calendar Watches https://watchranker.com/annual-calendar-vs-perpetual-calendar-watches/ Thu, 10 Feb 2022 13:46:29 +0000 https://watchranker.com/?p=18967 Annual Calendar vs. Perpetual Calendar Watches
When it comes to watches showing the day, date, or even month, we are not surprised by this addition and have thought of it as a fairly standard complication that is part of most watches we see on the market today. Unless you are a watch connoisseur, it is fairly unlikely you have even given that your watch has a calendar on it or even how it works we take this innovation for granted most of the time.
A large percentage of calendar watches will reset to the 1st of the month after running through 31 full days (24 hours), meaning they will need to be reset monthly. 
In response to the varying days and leap years, watchmakers designed two watch complications to combat this issue. This meant that watches would require less adjustment and be accurate for much longer without manual intervention.
In this quick guide, we will be looking at annual calendar vs. perpetual calendar watches, what each of these types of timepieces is, the differences between the two, the pros and cons, and some popular watches in each of these styles.

What is an Annual Calendar Watch?

BIG PILOT’S WATCH ANNUAL CALENDAR EDITION “LE PETIT PRINCE”
IWC Big Pilot’s Watch (Image: IWC)

As we have alluded to above, the annual calendar watch was created as a direct response to the shortcomings of a standard calendar function on a watch and allows for only one adjustment a year, hence the name.
An annual calendar watch is a step above the classic calendar watch and thus, only needs the yearly adjustment at the end of February or the beginning of March, depending on how you want to define it. 
This is because the watch can determine months that are 30 or 31 days but cannot distinguish a leap year from a standard year, i.e., it can not tell which February has 28 or 29 days.
Shockingly, the annual calendar complication is a fairly new addition to watches, with many people agreeing the first inclusion was in the mid-1990s by luxury watchmaker Patek Philippe. The addition of this unique complication was so innovative and functional that the watch won the prestigious title of “Watch of the Year” shortly after its release. 

What is a Perpetual Calendar Watch?

Patek Philippe Grand Complications 5320G Watch
Patek Philippe Grand Complications 5320G (Image: Patek Philippe)

Often thought of as one of the best, if not the best, type of calendar watches, a perpetual calendar watch is a marvel of engineering. 
A lot of watch enthusiasts believe that perpetual calendar timepieces are a staple in any watch collector’s arsenal and showcase one of the most useful and impressive complications on watches.
This timepiece is designed to recognize differing month lengths and identify leap years, making it only need to be adjusted once every century. This is due to the nuances of the Gregorian calendar, which removes one leap year every one hundred for no discernable reason.
So, to summarize, if you own a perpetual watch you will not need to adjust it until 2100, this is because the watches are designed so that a year ending in 00 is not accounted for in the leap year estimations. 
It is a small quirk of the complication, but due to the infrequency of years ending in 00, they have not been adapted. 

3 Differences Between Annual Calendar & Perpetual Calendar Watches

Frequency of Adjustments – it’s in the name, an annual watch is adjusted every year at the end of February and a perpetual timepiece is almost exactly that, perpetual, it requires a manual adjustment every hundred years.
Cost – unsurprisingly, the watches with more advanced complications are going to be more expensive. With this being said, it is very common for a perpetual calendar watch to be considerably more than its annual counterpart.
Variety – due to the higher number of annual calendar watches available on the market, you will have much more style options when shopping for this type of timepiece. Perpetual watches are more exclusive and have fewer choices available.

Pros & Cons of Annual Calendar Watches

Pros of Annual Calendar Watches

Accessible
Finding an annual calendar watch is much easier than finding a perpetual complication, and in turn, it is a lot more accessible in terms of price point too. Regardless of what price level you are looking at (within reason), you are likely to find a watch with this compilation. 
Variety Available
One of the major pros of annual calendar watches is their availability and the wide range of companies that make watches with annual calendar complications. You are likely to find the exact style of watch you are looking for in a variety of colors when it comes to annual calendar complications.

Cons of Annual Calendar Watches

Yearly Adjustment
As the name would suggest, an annual calendar watch needs to be reset manually once a year. This is because an annual calendar timepiece’s complication can acknowledge the end of a month that is either 30 or 31 days, but when it comes to February it fails to adhere to the shorter month and thus, requires a reset on March 1st.
 Misleading Descriptions 
Some watch companies tend to be a little misleading when it comes to their timepieces and their calendars, they can sometimes be worded tactfully to make it sound like they have X complication when it is actually Y. 

Pros & Cons of Perpetual Calendar Watches

Pros of Perpetual Calendar Watches

Accuracy
One of the major benefits of a perpetual calendar watch is that they only need to be adjusted once every 100 years. This timepiece is designed to know the varying lengths of months and even account for leap years.
Exclusive 
If you own a perpetual calendar watch you have an exclusive and unique part of watchmaking history. Due to the steep price of the timepieces, they are a luxury item and certainly a status symbol amongst the watch community. 
Expertly Crafted
There are very few timepieces in the watch world that can surpass the technical prowess and intricate design of a perpetual calendar watch. Due to their masterful construction, the watches are often purchased as a family heirloom to be passed down to the generations.

Cons of Perpetual Calendar Watches

Long Wait
Due to the mechanism and design of a perpetual watch, if you are unfortunate enough to set the wrong date on your timepiece, you will not be able to change it until the battery dies. So, as a cautionary tale, always double-check before setting the date on your perpetual calendar watch.
Lack of Variety
One of the major cons of shopping for a perpetual calendar watch is the lack of variety in the designs and options. This is not to say there are no choices available, it is just that there are a lot fewer designs created in perpetual complication watches.
High Cost 
With all perpetual calendar watches falling under the category of luxury watches, it is impossible to find a cheap timepiece that houses a perpetual calendar complication. This is due to the huge expertise and intricate design needed to make a perpetual timepiece possible. 

Iconic Annual Calendar Watches

Annual calendar watches have continued to be incredibly popular since their inception in 1996 and have not only become a staple of the Patek Phillippe line but also other watchmakers from luxury Swiss watches to more everyday pieces too.

Patek Philippe Nautilus (5726/1A)

Patek Philippe Nautilus (5726/1A)
Patek Philippe Nautilus (5726/1A) (Image: Patek Philippe)

When compiling a list of annual calendar watches, we would be remiss not to include one from the original company that patented and designed the complication.
Although there are a lot of Patek watches that have annual calendars, one of the most iconic is the Nautilus with the addition of the annual calendar, this was a very recent update to the classic timepiece in 2012.
The original Nautilus, named after Captain Nemo’s fictional submarine from the famous Jules Verne novel 20,000 Leagues, was first brought out in the 1970s and has proven popular ever since. 
It was a no-brainer to incorporate the annual calendar in one of the most recognizable watches in the Patek range. It has proven popular and looks incredibly stylish and in keeping with the original.

Omega Globemaster (Burgundy)

Omega Globemaster (Burgundy)
Omega Globemaster (Burgundy) (Image: Omega)

Although the whole Globemaster collection is beautifully crafted, none are more iconic than the burgundy version of these annual calendar timepieces.
The sun-brushed burgundy dial’s pie pan design is a callback to the constellation models from the 50s and has a unique look and feel.
Everything about this timepiece is a statement, from the Steel Sedna Gold (rose gold alloy) case to the burgundy leather strap and the gold faceted hands. 
This version of the timepiece is certainly not for everyone with its bold color choices, but the more conservative versions are available in more classic styles.

Iconic Perpetual Calendar Watches

Perpetual calendar watches are a prized possession in any watch collector’s collection and one of the most iconic timepiece types on the market today. 

Patek Philippe – Grand Complication (Rose Gold)

Patek Philippe - Grand Complication (Rose Gold)
Patek Philippe – Grand Complication (Rose Gold) (Image: Patek Philippe)

One of the most recognizable and iconic perpetual watch ranges is the Patek Philippe Grand Complications collection, these timepieces come in a lot of color combinations and variations. With this being said, one of the most iconic options is the Rose Gold 5327R.
Everything on this timepiece is intricate and beautifully designed, from the alligator strap to the water resistance (30m) to the white face with gold hands and detailing. 
Although there are many color options and differing styles, the Rose Gold has to be the most impressive of the models available. It is a charming and exclusive timepiece that is simultaneously timeless but modern.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 

ROYAL OAK MINUTE REPEATER SUPERSONNERIE
Royal Oak Minute Repeater Supersonnerie Watch (Image: Audemars Piguet)

As recently updated as 2015, the perpetual calendar version of the Royal Oak line by Audemars Piguet is an absolute masterclass in engineering. There are a few versions of this timepiece, but the most iconic is the Grande Tapisserie design on the classic blue dial.
The stainless steel case and bracelet make the blue stand out even more and come together to create an exclusive and smart-looking timepiece. Amongst everything this watch offers is a 40-hour power reserve and even a lunar function, this watch is truly a masterpiece. 

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Screw Down Crown vs Push Pull Crown (Pros & Cons) https://watchranker.com/screw-down-crown-vs-push-pull-crown-pros-cons/ Thu, 10 Feb 2022 10:49:08 +0000 https://watchranker.com/?p=20590 Screw Down Crown vs Push Pull Crown watches Cover
When you look at the anatomy of a watch, the crown is an essential part. The crown can be a vital aesthetic element of a timepiece or it can be pretty nondescript but either way, they are essential from a technical standpoint.
Naturally, a crown holds a lot of importance in a watch. For one, a crown connects the external and internal of the watch. It also helps you adjust the day, date, and time. In the mechanical watch, the crown primarily helps wind the watch to keep the timepiece in motion. Primarily watchmakers use two common mechanisms types – the screw-down and push-pull crown.
Similarly, various timekeeping facets influence the crown fitted in a watch. Watches used in water need a particular type of crown to ensure water doesn’t get into the watch. And on the other hand, watches not meant for water use often come equipped with a different type of crown.
In a similar vein, we dive into the different types of crown, their pros and cons, along with some bestselling watches with the different types of crowns. You may be wondering which would suit you better and what sets them apart. Continue reading to understand what screw-down and push-pull crowns are.

What is a Screw Down Crown?


Most commonly found in diving watches, a screw-down crown functions when you unscrew the crown counter-clockwise and springs open. Dating back to the 1920s, Rolex first used a screw-down crown in their watches. Although Rolex is famous for outstanding inventions, the screw-down crown does not trace its origin to the brand. Rather, Rolex bought the idea from two watchmakers, Georges Peret and Paul Perregaux.
So, how does the screw-down crown work? The internal watch component ends at a tube, connecting to a screw thread inside the crown. When you “unscrew” the crown, the thread releases and open the crown for use. When it is in an unscrewed position, the screw thread presses against the tube, closing any gaps from within using an O-ring seal.

Pros:

  • Best for use in water, as the screw-down crown helps keep the water from getting inside the timepiece. This crown creates an airtight space, sealing any gaps around the watch that can let water and moisture enter into the watch.
  • Screw down is also best for keeping dust from entering the timepiece. Dust is an unwelcomed guest. Once dust enters the watch, it can settle on the components and make the lubricants between components dry up. As a result, the watch is prone to easy damage.
  • You cannot accidentally unwind a screw-down crown, and only by manually “screwing out” or “screwing in” the crown, can you prevent any accidental windings that can change the watch’s setting.

Cons:

  • One common disadvantage of using the screw-down crown is that you can easily damage it by overdoing the screwing torque. This can easily break the screw thread within the watch, making the crown and the timepiece not viable for use.
  • While it is true that a screw-down crown fits ideally for a diving watch, this works only when the crown is in a screwed-in position, and water will enter the watch if you go underwater without screwing in the crown.

Watch Brands with a Screw Down Crown

These are just a couple of examples based on the price range. You can find many watches with the screwed-down crown, especially all those designed for water sports.

Rolex

The Oyster Perpetual 36 with a turquoise blue dial and an Oyster bracelet.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 (Image: Rolex)

Rolex watches, to date, use the screw-down crown for all their watches. For instance, the Oyster Perpetual watch features a sleek and slender design with a classic aesthetic. A mechanical watch with a self-winding feature, Rolex ensures the utmost quality crowns to keep the watch brand new for years!

Seiko

 SEIKO WATCH SRPD63 | Seiko 5 Sports | Brands
Seiko SRPD63 Seiko 5 (Image: Seiko)

This Japanese watch brand, rivaling some top brands in the global market, also uses screw-down crowns for most of its timepieces. We look at the Seiko 5 Sports edition in this example, equipped with an automatic movement. An extremely cheap alternative to the Rolex with the same crown, Seiko guarantees longevity.

What is a Push-Pull Crown?

Unlike the screw-down crown, a push-pull crown does not need a manual “unscrewing” to get it to function. In other words, you can pull the crown out and adjust the day, date, and time. Once done, you push it back in to seal it in its place. Where a mechanical watch hosts this push-pull crown, you can wind the watch in its place without pulling the crown out.
A push-pull crown uses an O-ring seal with lubricants to reduce friction or wear and tear on frequently using the crown. Though we say screw down is best for underwater use, it does not mean a watch with a push-pull crown will not function underwater. Instead, a screw-down is more effective in sealing gaps for deeper water exploration beyond 500 feet. There are even watches designed for 1000m or more – these almost always use a screw-down crown.
And on the other hand, a push-pull crown will work underwater in its “pushed in” state. However, brands recommend not to take it beyond 100 feet because the crown cannot withstand underwater pressure and decompression.

Pros:

  • Cost-effective compared to watches with screw-down crowns. Diving watches typically host the screw-in crown, and as such, diving watches are expensive due to their functionality and accuracy. The push-pull crown comes with more daily wear watches and dress watches, which are cheaper than diving watches.

Cons:

  • Not ideal for water use, including swimming or washing hands regularly with the watch on your wrist. When you pull out the crown, it creates a small opening, allowing for water to enter the inside of the watch, which could cause severe damage.
  • It is easy for a push-pull crown to open accidentally without the wearer’s knowledge.

Watch brands with a Pull-Push Crown

Timex

Marlin® 34mm Hand-Wound Leather Strap Watch
Timex Marlin Stainless Steel Hand-Wound Movement (Image: Timex)

This American brand is famous for producing cheap and affordable watches. Built with a certain American fineness, the Timex watches come with a pull-push crown. These watches do not work for underwater exploration but everyday wear. Check out the Marlin automatic watch with a simple, clean dial and a timeless design.

Swatch

Swatch NEW GENT Quartz Model: SUOB705
Swatch New Gent Quartz (Image: Swatch)

Born at the helm of the Quartz crisis, Swatch built its name over really affordable and colorful watches. The brand’s philosophy is simple – to develop fun watches to embody the wearer’s personality. These watches use simple pull-push crowns and are not recommended for water sports.
Some watch brands put extra thought into the design to make the crown look aesthetically pleasing. The onion crown and the crowns found on bullhead watches are two great examples as they are one of the most distinguishing features of these watches.
Related Reading: What is a helium release valve?

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What Are COSC Certified Watches? https://watchranker.com/what-are-cosc-certified-watches/ Mon, 31 Jan 2022 10:24:46 +0000 https://watchranker.com/?p=20017 What Are COSC Certified Watches?
If you have been part of the watch world for long, you may have come across the team ‘certified chronometers’. Alternatively, brands dub them as COSC certified watches as well. This special certification represents that the watches have the utmost accuracy and precision.
While many brands tend to market their timepiece as the most accurate watch, it is not actually always the case as there is no way of confirming this before buying. Whereas, watches with the COSC certification, on the other hand, go through intense testing. And, in the end, only those who qualify all the rounds get the certified chronometer tag. Essentially, this implies that these watches are as accurate as the brand claims them to be.
On this basis, we dive deep into what COSC certified watches are and how the certification takes place.
One can easily get confused with the terms chronometer and chronograph, check out our article to understand the difference and functions of these features.

Who is COSC?

Set up in 1973, the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute is a non-profit organization based in  La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. Driven by the intention to serve the public interest, laboratories from the five major watchmaking cantons in Switzerland along with the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry oversee the quality and testing of Swiss-made watches.
This certification, given by the COSC, guarantees the highest quality of watches by measuring and verifying the accuracy and precision of the movements. The standards of testing, governed by the Swiss Accreditation Services, follow quality control per ISO 17025 & 17065. Although millions of watches go through testing every year, according to the COSC website, only about 6% of exports from Switzerland get the certification. This shows the rigor and extent of these testing to ensure the correct quality of the watches.

Why do we need to test accuracy?

A majority of industries that depend on accurate timekeeping rely on these chronometers. We noted in the article on automatic movement accuracy that most mechanical watches or automatic watches have an accuracy of up to +/- 20 seconds a day. The reasons for this variation can be any – friction between the components, moisture build-up, extreme weather conditions, gravity, or magnetic forces.
For instance, if you are a doctor, or diver, or pilot, every second counts in a day. And, a variation of over 20 seconds a day can have lasting consequences. This is where the COSC certification comes into play. Watches with COSC certification have only up to +6/-4 seconds daily variation, some of the lowest recorded ever in all history for mechanical watches. The certification gives the user the guarantee that they can rely on the time with utmost trust and precision, giving these watches an edge over those without any certification.
While COSC certifies only Swiss watches, there are other such organizations in the world such as the Japan Chronometer Inspection Institute, Glashütte of Germany, and French Observatoire de Besançon bested with the responsibility of certifying watch accuracy.

Process of COSC Certification

Watches that apply for a COSC certification go through days of testing period on various positions and temperature settings. Given the nature of the expensive testing, not all watchmakers have the option to apply for the certification. For this reason, only luxury watchmakers with high-quality chronometers, often carefully hand-assembled, get certified.
The process of certification goes through four stages: setting the procedure, picking a test program, certification, and finally, delivery. Moreover, COSC only tests movements and timekeeping instruments, and not the finished watch product in itself. For watch brands, this means they test their movements and build these movements into fully engineered watches on being certified.
Mechanical watches with balance spring oscillators and quartz movements with oscillators are eligible for getting certified. Mechanical wristwatches and pocket watches go through 15 days of continuous testing. Clocks go through 9 days of testing, and quartz movements go through 7 days of testing. Including weekends, these measurements from the test record their functions.
For mechanical wristwatches with ISO 3159, only upon meeting these seven measurement rates, the final certification will apply: average daily rates, mean variation, greatest variations, the difference in horizontal and vertical rates, largest variation, variations on temperature, and rate resumption.
As you see, the COSC certification process is not cheap, nor is the process of building watches eligible for COSC certification. Consequently, watches with the certified chronometer tag have a high value and are not easily affordable for all.

Top COSC Chronometers

In this section, we highlight some top COSC chronometers of all time.

Omega Seamaster

Omega Seamaster CO‑AXIAL MASTER CHRONOMETER 42 MM DIVER 300M
Omega Seamaster Co‑Axial Master Chronometer 42 MM (Image: Omega)

Omega uses the term ‘Master Chronometer’ on the face of the watch to denote all those movements with COSC certification. These movements go through eight different types of tests to raise their standard on precision, durability, water resistance, and anti-magnetic properties. One such is the Omega Seamaster Collection.
More particularly, the Planet Ocean edition under this collection is an embodiment of  Omega’s promise of an ultimate watch. Hosting the in-house movement along with Omega’s in-house metal to design the watch, the Planet Ocean watch is your reliable companion in the sea with -4/+6 seconds per day variation.

Rolex GMT Master II

The Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II in Oystersteel and Everose gold
Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II in Oystersteel and Everose gold (Image: Rolex)

Rolex needs no detailed introduction. Every person dreams of owning a Rolex for its unparalleled superiority. Naturally, all of Rolex’s timepieces come with COSC certification as well. On the face of the watch, the brand features the Superlative Chronometer Official certification right above 6 o’clock.
For this article, we look at the GMT Master-II. Hosting the 3285 caliber, the movement shows a daily variation of just +/- 2 seconds only – one of the most accurate mechanical movements available today!

Zodiac Limited Edition Super Sea Wolf

Limited Edition Super Sea Wolf 68 Saturation X Andy Mann Watch
Limited Edition Super Sea Wolf 68 Saturation X Andy Mann Watch (Image: Zodiac)

If you are looking for a relatively affordable COSC certified watch, Zodiac can be a worthy option. Inspired by their 1970 World Timer watch, this timepiece is a modern take on its retro watch. Curated for the underwater adventure spirit, the Zodiac takes into consideration the needs of a diver in designing this timepiece.
This limited edition watch, designed in collaboration with the famous photographer Andy Mann, showcases horological superiority with its design and styling. With the certified chronometer, rest assured this watch will last you a lifetime!

Longines Record

Record collection Watch by Longines
Longines Record Collection Watch (Image: Longines)

Reflecting on the quintessential timeless design, the Longines Record collection features certified chronometers as part of its collection. Designed with the L888.4 caliber, the watches part of this collection exemplify simple yet elegantly sophisticated styles. Most of all, Longines is another good affordable luxury watch option that can go down generations after you!

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What Are Helium Release Valves? Watches 101 https://watchranker.com/helium-release-valve/ Mon, 24 Jan 2022 15:18:54 +0000 https://watchranker.com/?p=20588 Helium Release Valve - Complete Guide Cover
Famously found in luxury diving watches, a helium release valve also called a helium escape valve, helps the watch withstand differential pressure underwater. In short, when divers stay underwater for longer or explore the depths, the decompression can cause a difference in the internal and external pressure of the watch. This can cause a build-up of gas within the watch, leading to many problems and, ultimately, making the watch unreliable.
In order to overcome this challenge, luxury watch brands introduced this solution in the ’60s. By inserting an escape or release valve, the watch dispenses any gas build-up from within. As a result, preventing any damage to the watch. A fascinating feature developed through horological research, the helium release valve celebrates the innovation of human intelligence and pushes the boundaries of innovation.
This article will dive into the origin, history, and some top diving watches with the helium release valve found in the market today.

What is a Helium Release Valve?


Originally introduced in the 1960s as part of the Rolex Submariner Sea-Dweller and Doxa Conquistador, the helium release valve now features across many dividing watch brands. Rolex, in collaboration with a French watchmaker Comex, first introduced the Sea-dweller in 1967. Saturation divers who spend a lot of time underwater rely on their timekeeping equipment to a great extent. However, deeper in the sea, the conditions are dense with helium and hydrogen gases, which in turn affect the functioning of the timepiece.
For instance, helium gas containing molecules smaller than water can easily get into the timepiece. At the same time, the watches also go through a difference in internal and external pressure. This process of decompression underwater easily traps the helium gas within the watch components. Resultantly, causing the components to break or malfunction.
Watchmakers generally do not consider the underwater pressure and effect of decompression on the watch components. This is because, typically, horological designers strengthen watches to withstand the external pressure of the atmosphere. Moreover, as not all watches are suitable for underwater activities, this is not a common component across all watches.
You might be wondering how the release valve actually works underwater? A  helium release valve is a one-way valve with a spring. When a substantial difference in internal and external pressure builds, the valve opens up the path for dispersing the gas outward. Given that this feature is exclusive to diving watches, timepieces with more than 1000 feet of watcher resistance and ISO 6425 regulation host the release valve.

Do divers really need it?

There is no direct answer to this. So let’s break it down based on the diver’s needs. For instance, if you are not a diver by profession, you may not need this extra feature. However, this comes in extremely handy if you are a saturation diver and spend a large portion of your time exploring the underwater.
This is primarily because the helium release valve comes into use only during the decompression process. To reach this stage, one must spend a lengthened period of time underwater, and at depths normally not explored by recreational divers. It is here that the watch faces helium pressure in the water, getting into the watch itself.
Simply put, if you don’t see yourself regularly using your watch at that level of depth, you don’t really need the escape valve. And, this can save some bucks on your diving watch. On the flip side, if you are a saturation diver, you will probably need this feature. Mainly because these watches don’t come cheap. By owning a device with the release valve, you ensure the longevity, accuracy, and performance of your watch.

Top watches with Helium Release Valves 

Presently, many brands offer diving watches with the helium release valve. But, we look at the top three that set the bar for the industry to aim for.

Rolex

Rolex Submariner Sea-Dweller watch
Rolex Submariner Sea-Dweller (Image: Rolex)

We can’t not mention the pioneers in this helium release valve technology. Rolex Sea-Dweller is one of the most sought-after watches even today. The original timepiece with the first-ever escapement, often called Rolex Comex is a collectible by watch enthusiasts even today. In 2017, Rolex celebrated 50 years since the introduction of the Sea-Dweller.
This timepiece comes hosting a 43 mm case, unlike its predecessor with just a 4o mm case. The Sea-Dweller Deepsea comes with waterproof up to 12,800 feet, a true marvel for the world of watches. You can also get an edition with 4,000 feet under the same line. Manifesting the ultimate diving experience, the Sea-Dweller comes in four iterations, hosting the brand’s trademark Oystersteel. Designed with the quintessential Rolex design, the Sea-Dweller stands at the pinnacle of ultimate diving watches.

Omega

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean (Image: Omega)

Omega and Rolex compete with each other on achieving unprecedented technological marvel. Each brand pushes new boundaries and sets new milestones for the horological world to achieve. In a similar vein as the Rolex Sea-Dweller, Omega introduced the Seamaster Planet Ocean collection.
With waterproof up to 1968 feet, the Omega Plant Ocean embodies the brand’s heritage, legacy, and ethos. This collection is available in three sizes – 39.5 mm, 43.5 mm, and 45.5 mm – all made with Omega’s in-house metal 18k Sedna Gold. All the watches under this collection go through rigorous testing and then receive the Master Chronometer certification. Available in different steps and metals, the Planet Ocean is a true contender for the Rolex diving watches.

Doxa

Doxa Searambler Watch
Doxa Searambler Watch (Image: Doxa)

Doxa has etched its place in history, thanks to its Conquistador watch, released the same decade as the Rolex Sea-Dweller. Now, fifty years after its predecessor, the brand introduced the new SUB 300T Searambler in 2017. Much like the Sea-Dweller, the Sub 300T comes with 4000 feet water resistance and 42.4 mm case diameter.
The dial comes in six colors, hosting an automatic self-winding movement. However, unlike the Rolex or Omega, Doxa is a comparatively affordable luxury diving watch with equally promising features. Designed with an iconic style, and groundbreaking technology, Doxa guarantees high-quality watches lasting generations. The new and improved Sub 300T takes after its ancestor, but with more refined aesthetics and technology.
Diving watches are as popular as ever. Read our article to understand the origin and history of diving watches as we know them today and the best diving watches. You can also check out diving watches with 3000+ feet of water resistance here!

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How To Tell If a Watch Has Radium https://watchranker.com/does-watch-have-radium/ Wed, 12 Jan 2022 11:49:52 +0000 https://watchranker.com/?p=20328 chronograph and pen on a white background
Back in the early 1900s, radium was mixed with paint (producing radio-luminescent paint) to make the elements in the watch dial, such as hands and hour markers, glow in the dark. Mostly, young women were painting the radium dials. They are more commonly known as the Radium Girls. The term has become quite popular because these young women used to point their brushes using their tongues, which later on resulted in the recognition of radium-induced osteonecrosis as an occupational disease. Hence, by 1930, dial painters stopped using their mouths to shape their brushes. However, this doesn’t remove all the health risks caused by the use of radium.
The best luminous watches now use safe materials such as Seiko’s Lumibrite,  Luminox’s Light Technology (LLT), or Rolex’s in-house Chromalight technology. However, if you are buying vintage watches, those made prior to the early 1960s you could still end up with a watch that has Radium. Below we’ll summarize how to figure out if your watch has Radium or other radioactive materials such as Tritium. 

Health Risks of Radium Dials

Radioluminescence. A 50's Radium Dial, previously exposed tu UV-A light
Image Credit: Arma95 via Creative Commons

Radio-Luminescent paint is composed of zinc sulfide and radium salts. Radium is a radioactive element first discovered by Marie and Pierre Curie in 1898. It was first used as a cancer treatment. Yet, because of its glow that many found fascinating at that time, radium was also used in many everyday objects such as dinnerware, paints, and even in drinking water. Unfortunately, it took years and decades before people realized that it has harmful, fatal even, effects on the body.
Radium emits alpha, beta, and gamma radiation, which is why it is classified as highly radioactive. Once ingested or even only inhaled, the emitted radiation may interact with the human cells and then damage them. In the case of Radium Girls, they have swallowed little amounts of radioactive paint as they licked their paintbrushes. After a few years, many of them developed bone cancer. In addition, radium may also cause lung cancer when it decays to radon gas (a powerful carcinogen). Because of the grave risks posed by radium, watchmakers stopped using it on watch and clock dials by the 1970s.

How to Tell If a Watch Has Radium

1928 Movado chronometer, silver case covered in lizard skin.
Image Credit: Jafd88 via Creative Commons

The most reliable way to know if a watch has radium (or other radioactive material) is through the use of a Geiger counter. If you don’t have one, there may be some indications on the watch dial.
If your watch is quite vintage and is Swiss (produced before the 1960s in Switzerland), then it is highly probable that it comes with radio-luminescent paint.
If it is Swiss but is made after 1998, then it probably used LumiNova already on its dial. “R” or “Ra” on the dial may also indicate that it has radium.
For Rolex and Tudor watches, Radium was the standard luminous material until 1963.  After that point, Rolex started using Tritium instead of Radium. Although safer than Radium, it is still radioactive. Most Rolex watches that used tritium will have the symbols “SWISS T<25”  or “T Swiss T” under the 6 o’clock marker. Some additional symbols on the dial as they indicate the level of radium present in the watch.
Low radiation levels (complying with the Atomic Energy Commission regulations) are indicated with an exclamation point with the dot below the marker at 6 o’clock, or with an underline on the dial if the watch was produced in 1963 onwards. Another quick way to determine if the watch has radium is if it has a faint glow in the dark and does not charge up in sunlight. After a few years or decades, radium dials may lose their glow but it doesn’t mean that they’re no longer radioactive. It takes thousands of years before the radium will completely decay.

What Should to Do If Your Watch Has Radium Dial

If you found out that your watch has a radium dial, you don’t have to panic and dispose of it immediately. Remember, radium will only be harmful if it is inhaled or ingested. So one thing that you have to remember is to never disassemble or take the watch apart. Keep it intact in a safe and well-ventilated place. Why does it have to be well-ventilated? Because, as mentioned above, radium decays into carcinogenic radon gas, and it can seep through the watch even if it is watertight. Hence, a watch with a radium dial should not be kept in a small, poorly ventilated room to avoid high and hazardous concentrations of radon gas.
Your best option is to take it to a professional watch repair shop that specializes in vintage watches and experience with Radium. They’ll have properly vented work areas and expertise to change out the painted parts to a safer modern luminous material.
However, if you just don’t want to deal with radioactivity and radon it might be best to part with the watch. There are plenty of watch collectors that are not deterred by watches with Radium and you may even profit from it.

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How Tight Should Your Watch Be? https://watchranker.com/how-tight-should-a-watch-be/ Wed, 12 Jan 2022 11:27:13 +0000 https://watchranker.com/?p=18406 Although it may seem like a basic concept for any watch enthusiast,  getting a watch band with proper sizing is vital to wearing a watch that is both comfortable and attractive on your wrist. 
With the sheer variety of watches available on the market, there is certainly a model for everyone and a perfect fit for every wrist. You could get the most excellent watch in the world, but if it doesn’t fit your wrist correctly, it will not do the watch or you any justice. 
Finding a watch that fits, or making the necessary adjustments to get the proper fit,  is essential to look like a watch connoisseur and not like someone wearing someone else’s timepiece. This quick guide aims to give you the information surrounding watch sizing and how tight your timepiece should be to look right for your wrist.

Getting the Right Size Watch Band for Your Wrist

How to Know if Your Watch is Too Tight


Unlike certain clothes, watches should not be worn tight, some people mistakenly wear their timepiece too tight and that can be bad for your wrist, circulation and overall comfort level. 
Contrary to this point, watches are designed to be ergonomic, they are created to fit nicely on a wrist, so lean more to the tighter than the looser side.
However, what is defined as too tight is very subjective, and it can depend on your preference, but if you feel like you have a lower motor function in your wrist and your veins are popping out, it might be worth loosening your timepiece.
It is important to note that your watch will feel tighter when it gets hotter due to your wrist swelling in the heat. So what fits in the summer or a hotter climate may not fit comfortably in colder weather, or vice-versa. 
One obvious way to tell your watch is too tight is if it pinches your skin or you can’t move it slightly back and forth on your wrist. In the image above, you can see the case and bracelet are pushed tight up against the wearer’s skin and the crown is digging into his wrist. This is a good indication the watch is too tight and would most likely be uncomfortable to wear it like that for any long period of time.

How to Know if Your Watch is Too Loose


It is often easier to determine if a watch is too loose as opposed to too tight, and this is because the watch will be moving up and down your wrist rather than staying fixed on your wrist. With your arm at your side, the watch will rest on the top of your hand, rather than around your wrist bone – as seen in the image above.  
If your watch is loose it is much more likely to get damaged or simply just rotate a little bit and be much harder to read. This not only looks unprofessional but it takes away from the point of wearing a watch if you’re struggling to tell the time. 
Another way you can see if your watch is too loose is by looking at your wrist with your arm extended away from you, if there is a lot of space between your wrist and your watch it’s too loose.

How to Wear Your Watch Right

So, now we know what defines too tight and too loose, how do you wear your watch correctly? As we have mentioned, watches are professionally designed to be comfortable, ergonomic, secure and fitted, but not tight. 
What you are wearing will actually have a big impact on what size of watch you should wear. Take, for instance, you are wearing something with long sleeves, you may want a smaller timepiece as opposed to wearing a short-sleeved top you should lean to a larger timepiece. 
We briefly discussed how the weather has an impact on the fit of a watch, so always consider what temperature and humidity you are in. This is why we would not typically recommend getting a watch resized when you are on vacation as the climate may be different to your home country.
One of the cardinal rules of wearing a watch is ensuring that the watch’s lugs do not go over the edges of your wrist, this will make it look a lot sleeker and a much better fit. Some luxury brands will even do lug adjustments and offer different options. 
Typically, people wear their watch on the non-dominant wrist facing upwards, so for most this will be their left hand. Despite this, everyone will have their preference and due to people typing much more than writing with a pen and paper the need to have a watch on their off-hand is fairly irrelevant. 
You may have seen some people in the military or police wear their watch facing downwards; this is because they can quickly read the time when holding a weapon. Many veterans or ex-military will still wear their timepieces like this, even as a civilian. 

Factors to Consider When Finding the Right Size Watch

Case Diameters By Wrist Size: Image Credit WatchRanker

There are a lot of different things that people may think about when selecting a new watch, such as the price range, the brand, the color, the design, the style, or the additional features such as a chronograph or digital settings (alarms, timers, etc..).
One of the major things that people overlook seems like one of the most important is how does the watch fit? Considering it is an accessory that needs to be comfortable for multiple hours at a time, it’s an often-overlooked factor. 
Here are a few factors to consider when finding the right size watch for you.
Wrist Size
A common mistake we all make when purchasing a new watch is not considering our wrist size. We will generally choose our size based on some very broad specifications, typically along the lines of age or gender (i.e. men’s, women’s, boys, girls) but aside from that, we are fairly lax with the measurements.
Adjustable Strap
Obviously, certain watches will be very easy to change the size with an adjustable strap. This is typically on less expensive everyday watches, these will cater for most if not all sizes with multiple holes on the strap. 
Watches with Links
Higher-end watches are fairly likely to have links, which will often need to be adjusted with a tool or at a watch shop, which is fairly easy but requires certain tools or expertise. Some high-end watches may have adjustable straps, but any metal band without tools will not adjustable.
Brand 
As much as we would all like every watch manufacturer to keep to the same sizing, this is not the case. When buying a watch, you need to check the sizing on the site or with the store; some may be ‘X’ size but may not fit your wrist.
Watch Style
This relates to some of the above points, but the actual style of the watch will impact its sizing. For instance, a larger metal watch may fit differently to a small leather strapped watch. There is a wide variety of straps and bands on the market, so take a look around and see what is comfortable for you.

Ways to Improve Your Watches Fit

Adding or Removing Links
Probably the most popular method of changing how a watch fits and standard practice for most luxury watches. As we have alluded to, some watches come with a tool or are easy to add or remove the links, but a good amount of them still need an expert to help you out. 
Switch the Band

It is quite common that after buying a watch you may want to change the band or strap on it, or even get a second one to switch the look for different occasions. There are a lot of reasons someone may look into a new watchband, but the sizing could be an important factor.
See if Your Watch Has Different Sizes 
The same as suit sizing, watch manufacturers will sometimes make different variations of watches and their straps. This could be in terms of a short, standard or long strap, the material, or even the width. Ensure you ask or enquire about any variants that the watch has as one may be a better fit for you.

4 Reasons You Should Have a Good Fitting Watch

Telling the time 
This may sound a little obvious, but with how far watches have come, they are as much a fashion statement or accessory as they are a time-telling device. 
Ensuring that the watch is sitting correctly on your wrist is important, so you can always easily tell the time without shuffling it around
Wear & Tear
Having your watch fit correctly reduces the wear & year on your timepiece and allows you to maximize the usage out of it. A poor-fitting watch will put a lot of stress on the bracelet and thus, it will need repair or maintenance quicker. 
A loose watch can shuffle up and down your arm/wrist and create tension between the watch’s links and pins, whereas a tight watch puts pressure on these too but in a different way.
Looks Better
Having a watch that fits well will make it look significantly better, and make you look much more professional. A lot of people will notice a watch and it is a good way to inject some personality into an outfit, especially if you are restricted by what you wear at work.
Comfort
Once you have a watch that fits properly, you will be much more comfortable. If you are taking off your watch and there’s a big red mark and the watch’s indent in your skin, it’s probably too tight. Having the watch fit correctly will make you much more confident and comfortable.
Summary
This is just a quick crash course on watch sizing and determining what is too tight or too loose. Hopefully, now you have a better idea of making a watch fit your wrist perfectly, and have a newfound understanding of watch fitting.
Think of a watch like the third bowl of porridge in Goldilocks, you want it to be just right, but as the story goes, it’s only when we have had the wrong temperature (or size in this case) that we can work out what works for us.
To continue learning about watch fitting, check out our recent article on watch bands, which gives a detailed breakdown of how to find the right band or strap for your timepiece.
If you are interested in learning more about watches and the industry as a whole, we publish new watch content frequently and have a huge back catalog of blogs and posts to help watch veterans and newbies alike.

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